Monday, June 17, 2024

The Pinnacles, Kalbarri & Inbetween

We (Phill, Liz, Maggie and me) had planned to meet up at a farmstay on Nambung Station, which is near Cervantes.  It was still raining off and on, all grey gloomy skies but not really that cold.  I swung through Cervantes on my way to the farmstay ... and was seriously unimpressed.  Apart from some awful coffee, there was nothing much there.  The stromatolites were a great disappointment and looked nothing like the impressive pictures in the tourist brochure ... a few vaguely circular blobs, half covered with sand and submerged under murky water.  Hmmm ... I think there's been some serious spin going on here!

We went to the Lobster Shack (along with every Asian tourist in the area) but left again ... another merchandising success
The roads around here were lined with beautiful vibrant orange banksias
The stromatolites ... see what I mean?!

I am blessed with a very well behaved, biddable and patient border collie.  It probably helps that she's starting to feel her age (nearly her birthday, folks!) and that she LOVES the van.  So when we decided to go and see the pinnacles (NO dogs allowed), she was 'happy' for me to lock her in the van and leave her for four hours.  We drove to the National Park and didn't stop saying wow! or stop! or look! for the next few hours.


I was fascinated that there is still debate about why and how (apart from erosion) these pillars were formed.

Also interesting were the bands of different terrains

Phill and Liz
Small, squat, tall and curved, some with holes, some with the vestiges of roots (?) 

The twelve kilometre stretch of dirt road that Van Morrison had to cover before reaching the highway was a lovely challenge.  We felt like we were real off-roaders (as much as a 2WD van on a well graded road can feel) and I was proud of the orange mud covering the van ... until it rained and it all washed away.



We had decided to head to Geraldton.  There were things there to see and I was hoping that it would become fine as we traveled north.  After Geraldton, Phill and Liz would be starting the long trek home ... and Maggie and I would be on our own again.  I was going to miss them a lot.  We got to our caravan park.  It was wet.  Set up camp and it got wetter.  

A fascinating map, showing the inundation of Geraldton it they have a once in 100 year tidal event.
Geraldton ... at night ... in the rain ... it's actually lovelier than if the weather was good.  This is at the memorial to HMAS Sydney II 

The lighthouse at Point Moore, near our caravan park

But the wet weather couldn't last forever and we had a delightful day looking at the sights, going for walks (Liz and I) or visiting museums (Phill).
The St Francis Xavier Cathedral was a delight, with its bold striped interior
The Big Marble - I couldn't resist sitting Maggie so that I have a picture of her upside down.  Its other name is Horizon (for fairly obvious reasons) and it contains a massive 1800 litres of water!
This is the Donor Awareness Fountain - it was quite fascinating as it moved (rolled) in its cradle.  These delightful children made it stop rolling, changed its direction and were reluctant to get out of Liz's photo.  Small tantrum.  We left.

On our last evening, we decided to go out for dinner.  The ladies in the office had recommended a pub.  It DID have these gorgeous tiles on the tables (Andy Warhol tiles! I want some!) but otherwise it didn't have a lot going for it.  We changed venues, had a lovely meal and a good bottle of red (not on offer at the pub) and now it's goodbye!

Waving goodbye to Phill and Liz the next morning, I was again impressed with how easily we fitted into each others travel plans.  Ah well, there's plenty more to explore and we will travel together again, I'm sure!  I was off to Kalbarri.  I'd managed to snaffle the last site at the caravan park (there are very few free camps in this area and even less that allow dogs) AND had booked Lynette, the dog sitter.  On a roll, Anthea!  On the way to Kalbarri, I passed the famous pink-hued Hutt Lagoon.  OK, I know it's a bit underwhelming but it's the pinkist pink lake I've seen this trip!



The Lynton Convict Depot

Lynette, the dog sitter, is a legend!  I was happy to leave Maggie to be spoiled rotten as I explored Kalbarri National Park.  The first day, I headed inland, through vast plains of scrubby banksia and grass trees.  Before I reached the huge red gorges of the Murchison River.  Impressive and beautiful  



Nature's window - took me a while to wait for this photo since a family of bloggers were busy doing all the poses (including some that involved hanging their 3 year old from rock ledges ... "come on, you can hang on for a bit for mummy to take your photo")



And then there were the sunsets.  They have been glorious every night.  







My second day (Maggie ran back to see Lynette ... she has a cat) of wandering in Kalbarri, I went to all the clifftop places, doing a few walks (hot and sweaty! Yay!) and marvelling at the different stone formations.

Sandplains Woody Pear

Diplolaena
Many sections were burnt, although the grasstrees were remarkably resilient
Burnt and dead banksia ... not so resilient ... however, scattered all around the trunk were little seedlings emerging.  So perhaps very resilient afterall!
Warrine (Dioscorea hastifolia) otherwise known as the Native Yam, an important Noongar bush food.

And here's some photos from the coast of Kalbarri ...








What a wonderful place!  I'm off tomorrow ... fingers crossed since it has rained A LOT up north and there are flood warnings for where I want to go.  Watch this space!

6 comments:

  1. Imagine how excited you would have been about stromatolites if you were a year 8 or year 10 high school student travelling around Australia with your very excited science teacher parents !!

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  2. Very envious Anthea. I have special memories of some of the places you mention. Safe travels. How far north are you going, or is that an unknown?

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  3. Wow what great story telling and as usual brilliant photography! Truly enjoying your exploration of Australia and Maggie’s input
    ❤️Merran and Warren

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  4. From Science teacher parent. Some people have ungrateful children. !!

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  5. I love love love Kalbarri. So much like the east coast used to be in the 60s. Or it was last time we visited in 2012. Glad the rain could wash the mud off your van; our things are well and truly impregnated with the red oxides of the Pilbara now. My feet will take a long time to lose their orange tinge. Hope you get more clear skies as you head further. We’ve just arrived in Marble Bar - just a tad out of the rain but the clouds are trying hard. Might see you soon. Anne W

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  6. Thanks Anthea for sharing your trip. Wonderful cheers Margie

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Heading Home ... via Three Countries

I'm homeward bound.  However, in a rather relaxed sort of way since I have done little leapfrogs through Austria, Germany and now France...